Cao Lau Hoi An (a traditional noodle specialty of Hoi An, Vietnam) is likened to a “delicacy” in Hoi An Ward, Da Nang City.
Cao Lau noodles are prepared with meticulous care. Unlike pho noodles, making Cao Lau requires chefs to select pure rice from Da Nang. In particular, the locals neither use old rice nor newly harvested rice. Only when these standards are met will the noodles be tender yet chewy, carrying the distinctive aroma of Central Vietnamese rice. The rice must be soaked in lye water made from the ashes of Cham Islands’ trees. After soaking, the rice takes on a light yellow hue, similar to that of turmeric.
The water used to knead the dough for Cao Lau must be drawn from the ancient “Ba Le well”, as its mineral content gives the noodles their elasticity and firmness. Many Cao Lau vendors, after moving away from Hoi An, have been unable to recreate the dish for sale because they lack this unique well water.
Diners can enjoy Mi Quang, chicken rice, or traditional cakes such as Banh To, Banh Bot Loc, and Banh Beo in many provinces across Central Vietnam, but Cao Lau can only be found in Hoi An. In the 17th century, when Lord Nguyen permitted trade at Hoi An Port, Chinese and Japanese merchants came to do business and settle here—this was also the time when the delicacy known as Cao Lau first appeared.
Among the steps in making Cao Lau noodles, the technique of kneading the dough so that it is both pliable and dry is the most crucial secret, determining the quality of the final product. Unlike other types of noodles, pho, or rice papers, Cao Lau is not made by steaming a batter sheet. Instead, after kneading, the dough is rolled thin and then steamed. Once cooked, it is cut into thick strands.
Enjoying Cao Lau without fresh herbs is truly a great omission. The full assortment of herbs that can accompany Cao Lau includes up to 12 varieties: aromatic herbs, basil, chrysanthemum greens, bitter herbs, coriander, bean sprouts, lettuce, fish mint, young mustard greens, banana blossom, cucumber, and sour starfruit. However, there are three essential herbs that must always be present: chrysanthemum greens, bitter herbs, and basil.
The char siu pork for Cao Lau must also be prepared from carefully selected cuts of lean pork. The whole pork piece is marinated with fish sauce and five-spice powder until fully absorbed, then simmered over low heat. Once cooked, the meat is removed, while tomatoes, finely chopped onions, and oil are added to the broth and simmered further to create the sauce. Cao Lau owes much of its uniqueness to this char siu pork. The meat is cooked to perfection—tender, with a brick-red color that looks incredibly appealing.
When enjoying the dish, diners may sense that the flavor of this meat is not entirely Vietnamese, yet it is also unlike the cuisines of Guangdong, Fujian, Chaozhou, or Japan. It can be considered a flavor unique to Hoi An Ancient Town.
To prepare a bowl of Cao Lau, the chef cuts a portion of the noodles into short pieces, fries them until crispy to make “tép,” then roasts them with peanuts and sprinkles this mixture over the bed of noodles in the bowl. Next, thin slices of tender char siu with a rosy-red edge are arranged around the rim of the bowl, followed by a drizzle of sauce.
When enjoying Cao Lau, it must be thoroughly mixed so that the flavors are well absorbed. Cao Lau is often served with grilled rice crackers (Hoi An locals usually prefer the type made thick and topped with plenty of white sesame seeds). Another distinctive feature of Cao Lau is that, unlike many other noodle dishes, it does not come with broth—only two or three spoonfuls of sauce are added, preserving its rich and savory taste. For those who prefer a stronger flavor, fish sauce or soy sauce can be added.
It can be said that enjoying Cao Lau awakens all the senses—from the slurping sound of the noodles, the aroma of fish sauce and soy sauce, the rich taste of crispy pork cracklings blended with the sweetness of shrimp and char siu, to the mingling of spicy, bitter, and astringent flavors from the fresh herbs. A culinary aftertaste that can only be found in Hoi An’s Cao Lau.
In the past, Cao Lau was considered a premium dish. People from rural areas of Da Nang, whenever they had the chance to visit Hoi An, always longed to taste Cao Lau Hoi An at least once and bring some back for their families to enjoy. Today, this dish has become widely available in eateries across Hoi An, from upscale restaurants to humble food stalls. After hours of exploring and discovering the ancient town, visitors should take some time to savor this delicious and truly unique specialty.
DANANG TOURISM PROMOTION CENTER
